Center City Wandering

Less than two weeks ago, the heat index hit 122, so today with the air in the mid-80s it seemed a lovely afternoon for a walk. Meandering our way from Rittenhouse Square towards the Kimmel Center for the Arts, we were among the countless others taking advantage of the cool breeze and partly cloudy skies. Making our way along Pine Street, we couldn't help but notice all the brownstone apartments serving as quiet glimpses into Philadelphia's colonial history. It can be difficult to move through a district this historic without becoming romantic about its past. In a city that pride's itself as being the "first" at, well, everything the endless markers of historic achievement tend to blend into the scenery, but today one jumped out. The Civil War Museum and Library sits conservatively on Pine Street, so much so that if not for the metal sign by the street we would have missed it. Spotting the sign forced us to look around in an effort to figure out its location. In doing so, we were forced to consider our own location. On this picturesque August afternoon, we were free to wander our way through the city in search of iced coffee all because of the efforts of those who had stood here before us. We were quite literally in the middle of the Civil War Discovery Trail, adding an interesting twist to a surprisingly thought provoking walk.

Schuylkill Banks

The Schuylkill River is a lovely walk year round. This time of year, I find early morning and early evening to be the best, as the middle of the day the sun pounds down a little too hot on the paved path for my liking. From the Rittenhouse section of Center City, head to the intersection of Locust St. and 25th St. where you will find a set of railroad tracks to cross and an entry point to the Schuylkill Banks River Walk The paved path meanders along the Schuylkill River with patches of lawn and benches for watching both the river and people run by. The river walk paved path is a little over a mile and then connects to Kelly Drive as part of the Schuylkill River Trail. You will find people fishing, jogging with strollers or out for a morning coffee with friends. Whatever you find, it will likely be within this peaceful respite tucked neatly into the center of the city. While a number of major thoroughfares, such as Walnut Street and JFK Boulevard run right above the walk, the city somehow sounds miles away.

Philly Art Walk

With the sun shining, it turned out to be the perfect morning for a group art excursion through Center City. From Pine Street, we headed along Broad Street, through city hall to PAFA's Morris Contemporary Art Gallery for Hiro Sakaguchi's "No Particular Place to Go". We made our way back through city hall and over to Rittenhouse Square to check out what was on view at the Philadelphia Art Alliance which included Robert Baines, Matthew Alden Price and Chad Curtis. Along the way, we stopped at the Fleisher/Ollman Gallery for their summer show "Introspective/Retrospective". We ended our day with a walk up to the UPenn campus to check out the Arthur Ross Gallery who was hosting the Lauren Greenfield show "Girl Culture." In the end, Sakaguchi's solo exhibition seemed to stick with me the most. You can read my review of it below.

PHILADELPHIA

HIRO SAKAGUCHI

MORRIS GALLERY (PAFA)

The loose use of childlike colors and storybook graphics in the work adorning the entryway to PAFA’s Morris Gallery enthusiastically invites viewers into Hiro Sakaguchi’s solo show “No Particular Place to Go.” Once inside, the viewer discovers that below the surface of these innocent images hides the artist’s search for perfection. Closer examination reveals that the gestural marks on each of his works contrast the painfully controlled pencil lines which form the foundation of each art piece – from prints to oil paintings to drawings directly on the wall. This quiet implication of the artist’s sophisticated intentions is made even more clear by the eraser marks left on many of the pieces, noting the lines that did not make the final cut. They appear to be left on purpose as a simple imprint of the memory of the journey the artist took to get to each piece as we see them today.

The gallery is filled with works that span the last five years. From small sketches to sloppy-style prints to large oil paintings, the thread that ties them together is the increasingly obvious truth that everything the artist is doing is deliberate. Sakaguchi’s work seems to eradicate the fine line between fantasy and reality. We see the small pencil drawing for “A Boat with Hibachi Engine” from 2009 and turn to see it realized in full scale as a sculpture on the floor behind us. So convincing is the sculpture that, for just a moment, one wonders if it might just work when the charcoal is lit.

In the enormous oil painting entitled “Great Wall” (2011) the manmade wonder divides the canvas diagonally and is instantly recognizable. There are vibrant colors and active lines all around it. Small explosions are shooting out ammunition, which look like jet planes. Each blast is coming from a variety of toy-like tanks that litter the lower right side of the canvas. The Wall appears to be protecting an isolated, rural (rather American-looking) yard complete with log cabin, picnic table, a bike leaning against a pink tree and a clothesline running behind the house. In-between those tanks are men dressed in knight’s armor, charging forward with swords drawn. They are not entirely out of place, as a large castle rises up out of the middle of the wall.

The longer you look at each piece, the more complex imagery you find. Sakaguchi’s repetitive themes of boats, planes and tanks all appear playful against his depiction of nature’s profound size and strength. In an image that references Niagara Falls, complete with rainbow, an enormous bear is “fishing” for planes. These aircrafts relate to the bear’s proportions and placement as though they were salmon moving upstream. The age-old theme of man versus nature is retold in Sakaguchi’s work from the point of view of man’s futile efforts to conquer nature, whether by land, sea or air.

One might assume that Sakaguchi’s hybrid dreamscapes are rooted in his own hybrid world. A Japanese native, he came to Philadelphia to earn his BFA from UArts in 1993 and then his MFA from PAFA in 1996. While this exhibition is part of the gallery’s “Emerging Artists Series,” don’t let the misnomer lead you astray. Sakaguchi has consistently had solo shows, exhibiting internationally for more than a decade. He also has work in numerous collections, including the Philadelphia Museum of Art. On view until August 28^th, this solo show allows the viewer to gain a snapshot of the work of a prolific artist caught between as many worlds as he, himself, can possibly imagine.

Capogiro

My original intention for this afternoon was to check out Cafe Almaz who boasts excellent coffee paired with Ethiopian cuisine. Once again, I have found that the posted hours of local businesses in Philly are more like "suggestions" than actual information, as I arrived to find a note taped to the door reading "be back Monday". I continued on and looked up to see the word "Espresso" (in full disclosure it was followed by the word "Gelato") and entered Capogiro's on 20th street (one of four local locations). I paired my cold brewed iced coffee with a sandwich on fresh bread with layers of goat cheese, sun dried tomatoes and cucumbers. Yes, it was as delicious as it sounded. The small iced coffee was truly outstanding, each sip deserved a pause in between. I had stopped in to do some afternoon reading and was floored by the non-stop onslaught of customers, and the laid back staff who continued to literally whistle while they worked. Of course, one can not visit a cafe that claims to be "Gelato Artisans" without sampling that sweet treat. A small serving of Hazelnut and Sweet Amish Milk gelato little danced on my tongue for the remainder of the afternoon. I guess sometimes the best laid plans are best if they get you started and leave room for the adventure to unfold...

ING Cafe

In spite of its overpriced location outside of Rittenhouse Square, on the corner of 17th & Walnut, you can always get a good cup of coffee at a good price at ING Cafe. Their understanding of the value of a dollar should be no surprise since they are, technically, a bank. Always bright and cheery (its tough not to be when everything is neon orange), their entire menu ranges from $1-$3 including coffees, teas and baked goods. When I popped in on my way home, there were dozens of people sitting and enjoying the free wi-fi, the five large flat-screened TVs above the bar and the computer banking stations in the back. Situated in the middle of a busy community, their mission includes educating kids about money, as evidenced by the activities available for families. I have to admit I am a fan since their generous support of education also includes grants that have funded my students to travel to see some pretty amazing art. On this afternoon, I settled into a cushy, coffee-house style arm chair and watched the city whiz by out the window. At a time when we are all too busy to stop multitasking long enough to focus on just one thing, how does a business get our attention long enough to engage us? They evolve into a contemporary version of a traditional service by providing a gathering spot in the middle of the hustle and bustle that does not disrupt our flow to enter into. Here, they provide a service that includes a cup of coffee while watching the game, sending work emails, banking and educating our kids, all on the walk home.

Philly Java

You'll notice that today's map is a little different. Instead of showing my path to a new spot, today it shows the path that I returned on. My coffee excursion today was part of a last minute art adventure. Despite the heat index hovering around 103 degrees, I found myself shlepping off towards 4th street. I was headed to the fabulous fabric district to buy a few yards of cloth for a last minute installation. For those not from the area, the fabric district is a cluster of streets where fabric is stuffed from floor to ceiling, sometimes many stories high. Browsing might leave you lost for days, but if you go knowing what you need, you will find it. I quickly did, but knew the walk back would be a killer, so I took the opportunity to discover the Philadelphia Java Company. I stepped into a cool oasis and forgot about my walk home. The coffee shop was bright and filled with sunflowers on this afternoon. Situated on South 4th Street, in what looks like an authentic old store front, down to its tin ceiling, it was filled with people both inside and out. In addition to my rich, dark ice coffee, I fueled up with a labreh sandwich *scrumptious*. This delicious delight involved italian bread, a creamy middle eastern yogurt spread, giant olives and olive oil - most of which ended up drizzled down the front of me because it was so delicious I didn't even notice the mess I was making. Leaving Philly Java, I shook my head at the bravely insane souls sitting outside on this painfully hot day. I wandered my way back to center city through the historic Old City district. Shockingly, the extreme heat had not slowed the onslaught of families to Independence Mall. I took a quick peak at the Liberty Bell as I slipped into the always free and mostly clean restrooms at this national park before continuing to trudge through the heat. I had just come from what really was a neighborhood coffee shop, through one of the first neighborhoods in this city, which was one of the first neighborhoods in this country. While I had taken that for granted, all of the people braving the heat around me had not. I was free to take this walk through the birthplace of freedom and all I was focused on were the free bathrooms, sounds about right.

For those interested in the art that lead to this adventure, you can check out my completed installation if you click here.

Cafe Ole

Today's adventure was due in part to our friend Christine Colby getting into the Graduate Student Show at The Clay Studio in Old City. In celebration, we all set off to congratulate her at the opening. Originally the intention was to hit up Ray's Cafe & Tea House in the heart of Chinatown, but for the second time now the computer has lead me astray. Ray's is still in business, but it did not occur to me they would be closed for the holiday weekend (of course!). A little weary, we continued on, hoping to hit someplace before we made it all the way to the gallery. We happened upon Cafe Ole at 147 North Third Street. The place was packed on this beautiful Friday evening, both inside and out. Seating in front and on the side of the cafe allowed patrons to people-watch and the comfy couches inside seemed to be filled with old friends catching up. Relieved, we found a table for six in the back. Catching all of our eyes, almost simultaneously, were the gorgeous glasses of fresh ice tea (tropical green tea or raspberry black tea) being served that were absolutely stuffed with fresh mint and lemon. We all got in on this business pretty quick. It was hands down, honestly refreshing. This was just the rest we needed, in this artsy little cafe, to continue on. On the way out the door, I grabbed an ice coffee to go. The rich flavor lingered with every sip and I was glad we had braved the packed tables to find ourselves a spot here. Once again, I find myself happy to consider where I ended up when I was forced to move beyond where I had planned (there is something in there about the best laid plans...).

La Citadelle

Today's walk was a short, but familiar one. Rather than letting the computer randomly chose a site in the city to wander off to, I jumped at the chance to join my friend Erica for a quick afternoon caffeine fix at an old favorite. Located at 1600 Pine Street is one of the best cappuccinos you may ever have. I knew this from past experience and was thrilled to add it to this summer's jaunts. This quiet and relaxed spot is much of what I envision when I think of a neighborhood coffee shop. The small tables are packed with people clicking away on their laptops (there is free wi-fi here) and the jovial french owner welcomes everyone who walks through the door. Most appear to be regulars who talk for a while, many engaging the owner in his native french language. While the initial room is small, the high ceilings give it an airy and bright quality as an eclectic collection of global music plays in the background. Now, when you go there and order your cappuccino, pay attention - you are about to witness a master at his craft. The owner runs the espresso machine like he is playing a fine instrument. He casually swirls the frothed milk into your cup with an undeniable rhythm. It is a keen reminder of quality in craftsmanship. Sipping your cappuccino at a small table by the window, with the rich smell of fresh coffee in the air, it will be hard to imagine there is anything else you have to do that day. As you get to the bottom of your cup, you will notice the airy frothed milk that is still clinging to the porcelain sides and if you deny that you sat there and scraped every last drop out with that small spoon, then you are simply a liar. La Citadelle is evidence that a small community neighborhood corner can still thrive within the shadow of a large city.

Cosi

Ooops! The new parameter for this walking project will include calling ahead to find out if it is a. still in business and b. actually open when I am out wandering. Maybe not b, we can't eliminate all sense of adventure, right? Unfortunately, despite some rave reviews online, Remedy Tea Bar on Sansom was out of business when I trudged up there in the heat today. Not wanting to lose the opportunity at hand (and starving!), I continued on. One observation I can make about Sundays in Philadelphia is that they seem to involve some sort of a siesta. A number of places are open at lunch time and then again at dinner, but few I walked by were open in between. The exception were bars airing the World Cup, which was not the scene I was searching for this afternoon. As the heat began to take its toll, I stepped into Cosi's on 15th & Locust. The part of me looking for a local experience cringed a little. In my defense I believe there is something to be said for "any port in a storm" or in this case, any air conditioning in an extreme heat wave. There's nothing I didn't know walking into this Cosi's, or so I thought. I knew exactly what my coffee would taste like, I knew which salad I would chose, I knew what the furniture would feel like and I knew all the decorations that would be on the walls surrounding me. They are the exact same in every Cosi's on the planet. In the spirit of openness, I first met my husband in front of a Cosi's and five hundred days later, he proposed on that very spot, so they do have a place in my heart. But to stay on track, here's what I didn't know entering this Cosi's, this was a truly open and welcoming home for a very diverse community. While I sat and enjoyed both the cool air and what was expected from my ice coffee, I say something I didn't expect. I saw, repeatedly, a level of patience and kindness exhibited by a young staff, far beyond their years. While there, I witnessed an onslaught of customers looking for refuge from the heat. From a gaggle of children continuously interrupting the counter staff with a silly game to an elderly gentleman who required a lot of physical assistance; each person who walked in the door was met with dignity (and this did not fade once their transaction was complete). So today's walk has something to do with being open to the unexpected, even in the places where you know exactly what to expect...

Cafe Loftus

The first place on my summer tour is one that I have walked by countless times. Today, heading to my studio, I had a few short detours on this brief walk. With the sun pounding down on those of us bustling along 15th, I just hoped this place would be cooler inside then it was out. Nestled on the corner of 15th and Sansom is the unassuming cafe front. A few small tables outside, lead into a quiet oasis. The small cafe proudly boasts its "Old School" special of PB&J, Chips and Coffee for $4, but I was drawn in by the exotic - a black tea latte with honey and coconut that proved to be nothing less than divine. The hum of the industrial fans created a peaceful ambiance as passersby swung in and out with their ice coffees, being reminded by the barista to return for happy hour when espresso shots were just 75 cents. The walls were adorned with photos of a man traveling the world and volunteering in various communities, with a small printed sign that read "Always Contribute 2 Something". This quiet cafe contributes more to this corner than I might have ever given it credit for, shame on me for not having stopped in sooner.

Summer 2010 Walking Project

Over the last year, I have focused on getting to know the spaces I inhabit and celebrating what in the past I might have overlooked. I spent last summer getting to the know the city of Philadelphia as I tracked my daily travels through the city grid. I spent this fall walking a more organic path through the woods near my studio - an area I passed by for two years without stepping foot off the driveway. This past winter I traipsed around London with my husband and discovered the shapes of my travel. This spring left me following a river I have driven along my entire life. Now, this summer I find myself back in Philadelphia, so where to? Each series of walks and the work that grows out of it has a set of parameters.

Here are this summer's:

1) Celebrate the search for something ordinary.

This summer it is a good cup of coffee (or, to be fair, of tea).

2) Search for new spaces to explore.

My iphone will randomly choose places around me to set off to.

3) No repeats.

Away we go!